Heading up North

Alexis
Oct 5, 2022
8 min read

Updated: Apr 14

Note : post published October 6th 2022

Traveling up the Norwegian coast in September is like moving forward in time. Summer gradually gives way to autumn, showcasing shades from yellow to red.

I decide to split the journey into 3 parts for three times more pleasure :

Trondheim - Ørnes
Ørnes - Sortland
Sortland - Tromsø

Changing scenery and means of transportation, the love boat along the rugged coastline.

Luxury cruise

After the fjords spending a few days in Trondheim helped me reconnect socially : thank you Magnus aka TheKingOfBikes for the hospitality and thanks to Clément for taking me on a bar crawl ! It feels good to converse in my native language with a fellow frenchman.

But I can already hear the distinct three blasts of the ship's horn, boarding is imminent as the Polarlys slowly approaches the dock. Really slowly. I'm struggling a bit to see the "express" part of the "coastal express" advertised by the shipping company but who am I to judge ?

Once on board I wonder what I'm doing here. The average age of passengers ranges between 80 and 120 years old, the ship is luxuriously furnished and by 11:00 some of my fellow travelers are already chilling with a glass of champagne in hand. Needless to say I stand out a bit with my hiking look and the tent on my back. The looks become more pronounced when I start slicing my tomatoes, cutting my cheese, sorting my salad and making my sandwiches in the middle of the observation lounge. On the ship's restaurant menu ? Caviar, freshly caught crayfish and a glass of Chardonnay to go with it. Honestly my sandwiches are more stylish, especially when served on a cardboard.

But there it is, I remember. If I was able to book a ticket on this outrageously expensive boat it's thanks to Halvald ! He doesn't know me, I've never met him but while he politely declined to host me in Trondheim and as we exchanged a few messages, he sent me a discount coupon because he happens to work at Hurtigruten the coastal express shipping company. And voilà the 50% discount, thanks mate!

Once past the discovery of the cruise atmosphere, I can fully enjoy the passing landscape. No I'm kidding. The clouds, fog, and rain offer me a range of grays on a gray background. I understand better why they're drinking large martinis at the bar. When you're on the lookout, you might catch a glimpse of a piece of a mountain and if you're lucky see a few leaves in various colors. Autumn in all its splendor.

The only thing not to miss is crossing the Arctic Circle. Loud announcement, all passengers rush to the deck (well, each at their own pace given the average age) and each meticulously aims their brand-new phone or analog camera to capture the moment. I, who expected a large bright blue circle traversing land and sea with a golden inscription like "Polar Circle - 66°33'N," am disappointed. It's just a rock in the sea with a rusty globe on it that you can't see well because of the mist.

The 3-stage hike

Goodbye rich grandmas and wealthy grandpas. My first stop is Ørnes and I have quite a way to go before reaching today's goal at the end of the fjord and atop the mountain.

Stage 1 - Path closed

As soon as I set out on the trail I encounter my first obstacle. A wooden gate blocks access to the only bridge over the river. Not cool.

I consider all possibilities because giving up is not an option.

Crossing the stream by jumping from stone to stone like a mountain goat

Status : abandoned ❌️

Reason : 15kg backpack, slippery stones, raging current, too risky

Breaking the chain that keeps the gate closed, no one will know it's me

Status : abandoned ❌️

Reason : chain too resistant, not okay to break things that aren't mine

Breaking the gate that blocks my path

Status : abandoned ❌️

Reason : wood too resistant, still not okay to break things that aren't mine

Forcing the padlock that holds the chain and thus keeps the gate closed

Status : abandoned ❌️

Reason : padlock with a lock, don't know how to pick a lock

Doing the monkey bars on the cables that support the bridge

Status : abandoned ❌️

Reason : still a 15kg backpack, not enough practice, only seen in movies, too risky

Going over the gate

Status : success ✅️

Reason : simplest solution, can pass the backpack first, baboon-like agility skill possessed

Stage 2 - Endlessly slippery stairs

Now I understand why the path is closed. The staircase is steep, slippery and sometimes missing steps. I can't even say if the view is worth it because I'm swimming in fog. So the game is just not to slip but in my head I feel like Indiana Jones climbing the steps of a cursed temple. Okay, maybe I tend to get carried away.

Once at the top I think the hardest part is over, but by no means ! I forget about the third stage, less impressive but much more sneaky.

Stage 3 - Rain rain rain

It's already autumn here so logically it's raining. Out of the 6 hours of hiking I spend 4 with soaked pants, my feet doing "splotch splotch" in my shoes and a fear : sleeping in the tent tonight under the rain and without being able to dry off.

My only ray of hope is a cabin supposed to be open, unlike most shelters that open with a special key that I didn't find necessary to pay for. I can already picture myself in front of the cabin asking the same questions as in stage 1 : a big kick in the door ? Breaking a window ? Climbing down the chimney ?

The quicker I arrive the sooner I'll know but I think the simplest way is probably to break a window, it's rarely double-glazed. But in these conditions of doubt and squelching feet, I find it hard to enjoy the nature around me. So yes the colorful leaves are beautiful, the mountains with clouds are not bad either but with buckets of water falling on me it loses its charm.

Finally the refuge is open as expected and I can hardly believe it, it's all comfort included : a stove with pre-cut wood, a living/dining room with an open kitchen, large windows to watch the rain and a bedroom with a double bed.

Without further ado I fill up the wood stove and raise the temperature to dry all my gear. Once it's a cozy 22°C I finish my packet of peanuts and head to bed in my luxurious room. Tomorrow is another day.

And it's true tomorrow is indeed another day. Bright sunshine outside and summer warmth in the cabin, I can finally enjoy the view of the lake, the mountains and that famous yellow-orange-red that I rushed through the day before.

It's beautiful but no it's time to hit the road.

Stage bonus - Night in town

Now I have to descend the other side of the mountain, find a car to take me back to my starting point and pitch my tent not too far from the Ørnes pier to catch the boat the next day. I skip the descent part under radiant sunshine because besides saying it's really beautiful I don't have much else to say. As for hitchhiking it's the same old, smooth driving (thanks Nors the avid skier and Heidi the passionate teacher). It's when I'm looking for a bivouac that honestly things get a bit tough.

The city is relatively extensive, and the surrounding nature is marshy. I exit a residential area and, while walking along a forest path, I see two mooses scurrying away immediately. What if it was a sign ? What if they had seen my tent and understood that I'm looking for a spot to bivouac ? I scramble through the branches for an hour to climb up the hill from where they came and the location is terrible. It's fatigue talking, those fools hadn't understood anything.

Turning around and back into town where I try my luck on an abandoned house next to the port. The idea came from two cyclists I met in Trondheim, accustomed to night stops at bus stops, abandoned warehouses or any building with minimal walls and a roof.

Jackpot ! It smells of rust, the windows are broken, the floorboards are broken in places, cans scattered here and there, it's perfect. I'm sheltered from the weather and on top of that I have a view of the port. Tomorrow really is another day.

The majesty of the Northern Isles

The MS Richard With gently plows through the calm waters of the fjord. The sun is shining. I feel like I'm in a promotional video for Hurtigruten.

Change of scenery and last champagne/petit fours cruise before arriving in the Vesterålen Islands, the sisters of the Lofoten.

I pay no attention anymore to the wealthy grandparents in the armchairs, morning champagne, or intrigued glances when I cross the lounges. I have my little routines :

Setting up a temporary camp on a sofa with a view of the coast if possible
Unpacking and repacking my stuff for a tactical change of clothes
Quick wash-up in the handicapped toilets, shouldn't do that but there's more space and less traffic
A small coffee at €3.8, it hurts but the bartender is nice and gives me a free refill. I hope it's out of sympathy and not pity
Planning the next days with hiking routes, checking the weather, potential bivouac spots and sending requests to surf on couches

I then lift my head from my maps to check if it's still beautiful outside and I hit a wall, the wall of the Lofoten.

It's especially impressive with the setting sun, as if I had reached the end of the world, as if there was nothing beyond these mountains.

But the Lofoten is too popular for me, everyone goes there. So I go hiking on the Vesterålen Islands right next door. And I'm not disappointed, the landscapes are breathtaking ! The steep climbs are also breathtaking. And then there's the wind blowing as well.

I start by crossing a small island with a path that runs along a ridge. A good choice even if the route is a bit adventurous, the view is simply breathtaking on both sides.

Then, as usual, I have to find a place to sleep. This time I'm not afraid of the rain but rather the wind sweeping every corner of the island. Just when I'm about to give in and take a room in a rundown motel to avoid being blown away, I try a last-minute couchsurfing request to the 9 people registered nearby. And it works. Tonight my lucky star is named Heidi.

I pick up the keys to her apartment at her workplace, go get some provisions and prepare my signature cake to thank her. This time it's properly baked.

The next day we go for a little hike to enjoy the good weather with coffee and sveler (the local pancake) as a reward when we reach the top, the true Norwegian life. And to really embrace the cliché I witness my first northern light in the evening. What a beautiful day.

Then one last hike before heading to Tromsø. I head to the northern end of Langøya on the Dronningruta, the Queen's trail. Still haven't understood where that name comes from but still haven't looked it up either.

The pleasant surprise is this fine sandy beach nestled between the mountains to conclude the loop, the location of a fishing village over 1000 years old whose remnants according to the signs can be seen. After searching hard, besides grass, rocks and sand I haven't seen much but it's not a big deal, I'll get over it.